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he return from a cruise is always attended by a touch of melancholy at the approaching end of the journey. Sailors with a bit of experience use several ways of keeping up the good feeling until the very last day. Don’t think of wine or some similar resource, because alcohol is supposed to reduce our ability to remember. And a cruise, whether short-lived or several weeks long, has to prove its success by staying in our memories a long time.

Our proposal is very simple. The return should be planned along a course that we have not yet sailed. If we return to Opatija coming from the south somewhere, the Gulf of Kvarner provides yet another itinerary to use. It takes us along the eastern coast. The only fact that we have particularly to bear in mind travelling along this route is, of course, the bora. If there is a bora, a strong bora, then we have to give up on this itinerary. And if there is a really strong bora, for sailors whose destination is Opatija, the best thing to do is stick to our itinerary number one. Of course, back to front. It is somewhat longer, but a great deal more comfortable.

If the forecast doesn’t predict a strong bora, if we come from the south, the best thing to do is to sail to the northern cape of Rab, take one more swim on the already described sandy beaches of Lopar, and then decide on the continuation of the journey.
If we are overtaken by night somewhere near Kalifront Point, and we don’t intend to take a night voyage, it is best to point our bow from Kalifront at the lighthouse on Sorinj Point (B Bl 3s 10 m 6M), and sail along this line until we see the lighthouse of the ACI Marina at Supetar Bay. There is a red lighthouse (C Bl 5s 7m 4M) at the head of the marina pier.

The approaching end of a cruise is usually attended by a sense of urgency as well. Unlike the careful and patient planning in the days before the cruise, now decisions are made in a hurry, insufficiently grounded on facts. If we are caught by a bora, we will say, so what? Just a few more miles, and that’s it. But winds and the sea do not follow the human logic of haste. The shortest line by a chart is not always the fastest. What is more, at sea, staying a few hours, or a whole day, in a haven, often means arriving faster than any hurry.


The northwestern coast of Rab gives us a whole host of lovely bays in which waiting for better weather does not look like a waste of time. Each of them is incised deeply into the shore of Rab, thus protecting us from the bora. Unlike the sandy beaches at the northern end of the island, here the coves are all stony at the beginning, and forest-fringed, being decked with a little beach only at the head.

The first of these bays (coming in from the south), even if it is not the most beautiful, achieved fame thanks to the King Edward VIII. In 1936 he took a skinny dip here, and this unexpected action is held to be the start of naturism on the island. Of course, people had swum naked even before. In pre-historic times for, example. But the tourist industry in Rab made hay out of the presence of the English king. This bay is called Kandalora, and it is right alongside Frkanj Point.

Looking at the chart, we might think that each of these bays is just like another. But we can identify them according to certain characteristics. We can recognised Čifnata Bay, for example, by the chapel on the western point. If we don’t feel safe at anchor here, we can shift to Veli Žal Bay. There is a fifty metre long pier here. At the very end of it there is a depth of about 4 metres, although it is mostly filled with the craft of the locals.
Before Kanitalj Point, on which there is a lighthouse, we can sail into Kristofor Bay There is no need to make particular mention of this bay’s ending in a nice beach.
Close to Kalifront Point, we might also mention Planka and Sv. Mara bays, some of the bigger ones. The last bay has long been known as a safe anchorage, for there are carved bollards to tie up at. They have for certainty not been made by today’s inhabitants of Rab or the tourists, because to carve them out needed the patience of old and seasoned sailors.
  But on we go.

In all these coves, if we want to have a peaceful swim, it is possible to anchor at a depth of 5-7 metres. Those who have had their fill of the sea can wander along the many forest paths that lead to each of these beaches.

ust a few miles to the east of Lopar, or of Stojan Point, is Goli otok: Bare Island. Its name speaks eloquently of its appearance, but it was what happened on it during several decades that attracts the attention of visitors. For many a long year (up to 1988) the island was a penal colony for political prisoners. Today it is open to tourists.

As well as the convicts, who had really tough conditions here, the warders also lived on Goli otok. The surroundings of the buildings where they dwelt are well forested, and we can say that Bare is surprisingly green in fact. Of course, only on the southwestern part, because the sides of the island exposed to the bora are completely naked and inaccessible. Since the closeness of lovely beaches on Rab makes it pointless to swim or sunbathe on Goli, and since our only wish is to look around the buildings that conceal the sorry truth of the past, it is best to choose Mala Tetina to tie up in. It is safe to moor here at the concrete waterfront. The northern side of the quay is shorter than the southern arm. The depth of water at the southern leg falls from 4 to 1.5 metres, while at the northern part the depth is from 3.5 m to 1.5.

Most of the buildings of the prison were located between Mala Tetina Bay and Melna Bay. At the northern end of Melna is a lighthouse, more precisely, on Sajlo Point. Befitting the island, there are several bunkers around the light.

Somewhat to the south of the lighthouse, but less than half a mile, there is a second mooring in Melna Bay. This consists of two piers that close in the bay. At the head of the northern arm the depth is in excess of 5 metres. If we tie up to the southern pier we have to be careful, because there is a shoal at the very head of the pier (half a metre). At the knuckle-shaped convexity in the middle of the pier the depth is already 4 metres and gradually drops off towards the head of the bay to 2 metres.

Only a mile to the north west of Goli is Sv. Grgur (St Gregory Island). Its past was not much jollier - it was a women’s prison.

On Grgur there is only a single bay that can be commended for mooring. Isn’t it rather strange that on an island as small as this the name of the island and its only bay should be the same? Grgur Bay on Grgur Island. Or actually, St Grgur Bay on the equally pious island.
The concrete wharf in the centre of the bay is about 40 metres long. There is any depth only at the south-western end of it, about 4 metres. At the other end, the depth falls to about 2 metres. The quay abuts on the beach, which we might say was nice if it were not an eyesore because of the ruins of the already mentioned women’s correctional facility.
The third in this island group is Prvić. Although it is almost twice as big as Goli and Grgur, there are no houses on it, nor did sailors ever want to linger on it. Recalling the wretched history the other two managed to achieve, perhaps it is best that Prvić should have remained uninhabited.

etween Prvić and Rab lies the famed Senjska Vrata. This strait can boast of the strongest bora in the whole of the Adriatic. It is only four cable lengths wide, and is bounded by two capes. Stražica Point on Prvić, and Škuljica Point on Rab. Lots of stories begin with their names. ‘Twas between Stražica and Škuljica when the ship was caught by a bora of hurricane force…

Baška harbour provides a safe mooring. The harbour is big, and in it there is also a ferry landing. Baška is connected with Rab and Senj on the mainland by ferries.
Mentioning Senj, we have to decide - to carry on cruising along the coast or Krk, or cut across the Velebit Channel, and sail right along the land. The dilemma is the greater when we mention all the historical interest of the city of Senj. The Uskoks of Senj…
No. We are sailors, and if we have to pick island or mainland, our natural bent is for the island. Let us go along Krk.

We should not miss out on a visit to Vrbnik. In the tourist guides it says it is a typical Frankopan settlement that in its ground plan is similar to all the others that the Dukes of Krk put up in the Croatian Littoral. And, it goes on to say, the port is protected from all the winds. This can be said only if you have never been caught by a bora in Vrbnik. A strong bora. The pier does, it is true, protect the harbour from the actual wind, but the waves make such a mighty and very nasty confusion inside that you dare not leave the boat for a moment, constantly shifting the fenders from one side to the other to avoid damage. And then if you are caught by a powerful bora in Vrbnik, it means that you are actually imprisoned there.

If the weather is nice, you can really enjoy yourself. For swimmers, there is an unusual beach at the very foot of the great cliff that makes up the seaward side of the eminence on which the city itself is located. You can get to the first beach on foot, but the second, which is at a distance from the pier, can be reached only by swimming. Or one of the locals might take you in a small boat. The sun soon goes from the beaches, but in the summer heats it must make good sense to have an umbrella. For lovers of good wine, Vrbnik is a place for trying the best Žlahtina, a famed wine made from the grape of the same name. Culture-vultures will also find plenty of interest in Vrbnik. Hardly surprising, when we know that Vrbnik was mentioned first off in 1100, and in 1388 it gained its statute or charter, written in the Glagolitic script.

Right opposite Vrbnik lies the lovely little bay called Žrnovnica. Lovers of the land, so that you should not have the right to criticise us, we promise to visit it at the first opportunity, by road if need be.

Getting deeper and deeper into the channel between Krk and the mainland, the strait that becomes ever narrow is called the Vindolski Channel. Between Crikvenica on the mainland and Šilo Point the channel is a bit more than a mile wide. Now we can halt on land too, without missing the interesting features of Krk.
Any sailor will find it a challenge to sail into Soline Bay. A shallow cove with a narrow entrance, protected from all the winds. One really has to be pretty cautious because of the shallows, and it is possible to make fast only to the very top of the small pier in Klimno village. At the head of the pier the depth is about 3.5 metres. There is plenty of depth until the centre of the pier, where there is a little convexity towards the head of the bay, making the limit up to which yachtsmen can use this part of the landing. Since the depths in the whole of the bay are not very great, it will be easy to anchor in any part of it, making sure of course that it is not too shallow.
Big holiday-making centres come one after another on the mainland. Novi Vinodolski with a rich cultural heritage (the Vinodol Codex), then Selce, and finally Crikvenica The Crikvenica Riviera. When one says the Crikvenica Riviera, one is thinking of the whole of the tourist industry from Selce to Jadranovo.

Crikvenica’s development into an important tourist spot is linked with the growth of Opatija. 

Crikvenica can thank its rapid development to the Austro-Hungarian court. Francis Joseph fell out with his brother the Archduke Joseph. The Archduke resolved to move out of Vienna, and since the growth of Opatija was patronised by Vienna itself, he resolved to invest his energy, and his cash, into a different resort, one Crikvenica. In 1888 the first wooden bathing place was built. Not long was to pass before the Archduke Joseph Hotel was opened for high society. Since then, Opatija and Crikvenica have developed keeping an eye on each other, jealous as two beauties, each endeavouring to be the most beautiful.

The harbours of Crikvenica and Novi Vinodolski are safe to tie up in during all conditions except when the winds are coming from the fourth quarter. The bora, if strong, can create nasty waves that roll in all directions. It is a bit dangerous to be caught in these ports when storms start thundering along the Kvarner.

The harbour of Novi Vinodolski has two piers on the heads of which there are lighthouses. Green on the outer, red on the inner. On the inner side of the outer pier the depth is about 3 metres, but it rises and falls very irregularly in the pool created by the two piers. That is why it is essential when sailing in to look carefully at the map of the port.

Crikvenica has a large pier, which curves away from the town into the port, the end pointing towards the Vinodolski Channel, protecting the sea within the port from the southerlies. There is depth enough to the first buoys, where the boats of the locals are tied up. The anchorage in the centre of the port does not provide adequate protection. The shallows in the port itself are marked with buoys.

We can go on with our cruise, or rather the way back to Opatija, by the narrow channel between Krk and the mainland. Tihi kanal, or Quiet Channel. We have no idea how it got the name, because the bora roars here mightily, although there is not much room for it to kick up very big waves. But don’t let that fool you. The spray that its wrath raises will have any sailor wandering what he is to do next. In such conditions, we have to keep as close to the land as possible, and the little harbours in the channel itself might serve as refuge. If the draught of our vessel isn’t more than 2.5 metres, the harbour of Jadranovo is a safe refuge. It is best to tie up at the stone wharf in the southern part of the harbour. Apart from Jadranovo we can also use the one-time car-ferry port of Črišnjevo as a shelter; here we will come upon a landing adapted for the car ferry. Such quays are never very appropriate for smaller ships, but in the event of need we can get by somehow.

On the northern end of the channel lies the island of Sv. Marko (St Mark), which served the builders who made the bridge linking Krk with the mainland as a prop. We have to agree that this is a sorry fate for an island.

Sailing under this enormous structure will always stick particularly vividly in sailors’ memories. The height of the bridge is high enough in middle for all ships, and not even those with the highest masts need have the slightest fear of passing underneath its span. Here we might be surprised by the occasional plane, because Rijeka Airport is right next to the bridge.

On the edge of this channel, on Oštro Point, we catch sight of Kraljevica, a well-known shipyard today. Entrance into Kraljevica port is somewhere between this point and Fortica Point, which is easily recognisable because of the walls of the great fortifications it takes its name from.


Of course, our impatient look at the chart will tell us that the way to Opatija is now free, course 290. Twelve more miles. But if we have a little more time, one should not miss Bakar Bay. This is a really old sailing centre that one ought to do the honour of seeing. Thousands of sailors acquired their basic knowledge at the naval college here, learning about navigation, and engines, all essential for sailing, later showing what they knew on the seas and oceans of the world.

The city of Bakar is located at the northwestern part of the bay. Over against it is the little place called Bakarac. It is located at the jaws of a canyon from which the bora blows with quite unbelievable power, but only as far as about the middle of the bay. There is nowhere to tie up in the town. Its feature is its two or three tuna-spotting towers. Fishermen once squatted on top of these weird erections, waiting for the moment when a big enough shoal should swim into the head of the bay. When this happened, the fishermen on the look-outs would give the word to those waiting below, who would raise the net on the seabed up to the surface, thus cutting off the bay. The captive tunas had no way out.

Bakar itself has a nicely laid-out port, as befits a famed nautical centre. But alas, things around Bakar are not geared up to the sea. The many industrial facilities quite spoil the look of this marvellous bay. But we sailed into Bakar only to recall its maritime tradition, wanting it to train still more seafarers.

On the way out of Bakar Bay - course 290. Opatija!

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